KILN’S OPEN-HEARTH COOKING IGNITES A NEW KIND OF FLAVOR FOR OLD TOWN
Walking through the pristine lobby of Hotel Heron, all senses can’t help but be drawn to Kiln. Emanating in an warm amber glow, the sounds of chatter and clinking glasses lure the way to one of most alluring dining destinations Old Town’s seen in years (699 Prince Street, Alexandria, Virginia).
“At our core, we’re a neighborhood restaurant,” executive chef Matthew Maienshein tells Eater. “We’re so proud to be a part of the community and want guests to feel a sense of belonging when they enter the space.”
At the 134-room hotel’s month-old flagship restaurant Kiln, Maienshein deepens layers of flavor and richness through open flame, smoke, and char. “Kiln was inspired by Alexandria’s first documented potter, Henry Piercy, whose kiln once stood blocks away from where the hotel lies,” Maienshein says.
Maienshein’s culinary credentials include stints under Michelin-starred French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten at three of his New York restaurants in the last six years: Topping Rose House, ABC, and most recently, JoJo by Jean-Georges as chef de cuisine.
He joins Hotel Heron’s director of food and beverage Betty Woodward, whose career began as head bartender at José Andrés’ longstanding Oyamel in Penn Quarter. She returns to D.C. after most recently overseeing the restaurants, bars, and events at Thompson Savannah in Georgia.
“We worked together to bring the wood-fired concept to life, which really allows for the mid-Atlantic ingredients found throughout the menu to shine,” says Maienshein.
At the moment, that includes snapper for its crudo, local turnips, and clams.
“The unexpected standout for me is our Maryland catfish,” he adds. “I don’t think it’ll ever leave the menu. It’s a beautiful dish and really represents Kiln and our ethos: utilizing ingredients as fresh as they can be.”
Served with spring onion, crispy potato, and smoked butter, the catfish is delivered fresh daily from premiere local purveyor Profish.
“Coming out of the Chesapeake Bay, I want to know everything about our products, from the boat the fish came off of to the name of the captain,” says Maienshein.
Other menu highlights include the olde salt oysters, charred asparagus, and 18-hour cabbage, prepared with ember roasted vegetable puree and pickled mustard seeds. For larger plates to share, guests can choose between a Mosner Farms whole lamb rack ($84) or a Shook Farms 28-ounce strip loin ($92).
Seasonal cocktails swing subtly spicy and smoky, as seen in the Acrobat, made with green chile vodka, pineapple, génépy, green apple, hellfire, and lime; and Harry’s Style, made with tequila, mezcal, watermelon, poblano, yuzu, and lime soda. Wines and draft beer are also available by the glass.
Kiln is open for breakfast daily, 7-10 a.m., and for dinner Tuesday to Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Reservations can be made on OpenTable.
“I really view Kiln and the property as a whole as a third space,” says Maienshein. “We’ve created a comfortable room with pretty cool food and drinks behind it.”
The boutique property that opened in June is also home to Good Fortune, a rare rooftop bar for Old Town perched on the 7th floor. Even more more drinks are coming to the hotel soon; Francis Hall, a velvety lounge hidden within the lobby, is slated to open in September with 30 cocktails that swing from classic to experimental. Francis Hall is named after a barkeep who worked in Old Town for over 40 years.
—Tierney Plumb contributed to this report