I came to know the Long Beach peninsula as a child when my dad would haul our fishing boat south from Port Angeles to go crabbing. A thin strip of beaches that stretch from Astoria, Oregon, towards the Quinault Reservation on the southern edge of the state, this little region is remote, sparsely populated, and overwhelming beautiful. The memories I have of Long Beach and Ilwaco are of driftwood carving artists, small museums, and quiet beaches. It has remained the same over the several decades I’ve known it, a charming getaway for those who crave peaceful solitude. There’s room to breathe, stretch, and appreciate the natural wonders of the place where the edge of the continent meets the earth’s largest ocean. Perhaps its best-kept secret is that it has a food scene as strong as any in the Puget Sound harbor towns.
Here are some of the top restaurants in the stretch of misty, salt-sprayed land from Ilwaco to Ocean Park.
The 30-minute wait for lunch on weekends is well worth it at the popular Salt Hotel Pub. Plus, you can pass the time in the picturesque Saturday art market just beyond the patio doors. Featuring traditional American seafood, the pub here offers the freshest fish for a variety of coastal dishes from chowder to fish and chips, though the locally caught and smoked albacore tuna melt steals the show on this menu. Venture here on a weekday and you’ll find the same great views and eats with none of the wait times.
Don’t confuse the speedy service here for a lack of quality — the apps and drinks at the At the Helm boutique hotel pack a punch. The lemon garlic prawns are perfect for a late light lunch or an in-between meal snack for a group. Dining alone in order to cultivate an air of mystery? The Dungeness crab bisque is warm, filling, and perfect for one. Drinks like their Key lime pie cocktail with fresh lime and spiced rum will remind you you’re on a beach and here to let loose.
This is probably the closest you’ll get to fine dining on the Long Beach peninsula. The Depot serves an array of fresh, Northwest seafood plates as well as a few superb landfood entrees like duck confit. For those who are looking for a real treat you won’t get anywhere else, the Peruvian mango sea scallops are a showstopper dish: The buttery, melt-in-your-mouth scallops in a sweet, acidic, and slightly spiced mango reduction that take you on a sensory pleasure cruise. The dish is finished with a drizzle of parsley oil that brightens the plate. Dinner reservations here fill quickly on weekends, but if you try your luck as a walk-in you’ll find the bar to have great service and comfortable seating.
If one were to conjure an image of the ideal seaside inn, this would be it. Not only is the Shelburne the perfect choice for lodging on your moody beach getaway, it has some of the best food in town, from buttermilk fried oysters to rockfish and chips. The dining areas are small and intimate, lending themselves to quiet conversation and peaceful evening meals. If you need a spot for after dinner drinks and dessert, you’ll find it here. Plus, the amount of chocolate packed into the flourless chocolate torte will knock your socks off.
As good as they are, after a day or two of oysters and steamed mussels, you may find yourself on a coastal vacation in search of anything else. Enter the Lost Roo, an Australian themed seafood joint with coastal dishes from all over America. Yes, the seafood chowder is phenomenal and you can get many of the same fresh local offerings you’ll find elsewhere in town, but that’s not all. The Louisiana-style gumbo is spicy, hot, and provides the perfect departure from the sometimes monotonous seafood offerings in coastal towns. Minutes from the ocean, this is a family-friendly spot, and the perfect end to a chilly evening at the beach.
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